 Poster: A snowHead
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Planning on a 3 day trip to Baqueira in mid March, what's a good place to stay? Looking for easy piste access and decent places to eat in the evening...
Is it possible to stay on the mountain, or do most people stay in the villages down the valley, Vielha etc?
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Tuc Blanc is excellent and almost immediately opposite the lifts but a few steps up and across the road
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Baqueira village or Tanau are where the lifts start, but honestly they are the last places I would choose in the valley, as the former is entirely uncharismatic and the latter is a dormitory, albeit a nicely constucted one. Much better to be in Arties or Salardú (ideally in the old village centre), which are just a couple of minutes' drive away, or else in Vielha for a bigger range of evening options at the expense of a longer drive to the skiing. Of course, if convenience is your thing then there's nothing wrong with the big hotels in Baquiera village, as countryman says; but it's a very different experience.
Like pretty much every Spanish ski area, you need a car to get the best out of it. My advice is to embrace that and not be afraid to drive to any of the restaurants that are highly rated on the likes of TripAdvisor (and visit the Spanish TripAdvisor rather than the English one, if only to get the ratings!). Just be aware that there are frequent police controls. That way, your choice of base can be made on the basis of how nice the accommodation seems instead of being tied to the village's amenities.
A lot of the Val d'Aran's secrets are tucked away out of plain sight. Wherever you stay, make time to explore your village on foot. There are nice things to discover in all of them (well, not so much in Baquira village itself!)
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Thanks, thats great info!
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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I agree Pyremaniac - I stayed in Baqueira itself last January - soulless and lifeless at night and wished I had stayed in Arties and got the bus up in the morning or driven. The hotels are fine but there seemed to be no bars open after 6pm or they were deserted so most life is hotel bar and restaurant dominated. If I ever went back, and until they mark pistes both sides I won't as it was dangerous in a white out, I would definitely stay down the valley.
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Over the years we have tried pretty much all the option for staying around Baqueria from down in Vieha to up in Tanau, and here are my thoughts:
We only stayed in Vieha the one time. It’s quite a big town and just didn’t feel like we were on a ski holiday.
It’s also a longish drive up and down to the skiing each day.
It was quite a long time ago and I can’t really remember any of the places we went out to. Can’t have been that good !
Now when we go we stay in Artiés, it has an excellent selection of hotels, bars and restaurants.
We stay in the Hotel Casa Irene (http://hotelcasairene.com) which provides a shuttle bus to and from the skiing.
The place feels like it has more atmosphere than Baqueria itself, and has some of the best Tapas Bars I’ve been in. To the point we have to ration the tapas plates so we don’t over eat before dinner.
Artiés also has two Bears rescued from a circus in a very spacious enclosure with their on cave. Which you can guarantee they will the sleeping in whenever you go to take a look.
Be warned though. Access to the skiing from here, and further down the valley at peak times (weekends and school holidays) can be slow. A ten minute journey can take a lot longer.
We’ve stayed in one of the hotels in the main complex in Baqueria itself, but as other have mentioned the town lacks a centre and you feel like you are looking around to find the action. Which we never did. Of course all this remembering here you are on Spanish time ! No one goes to dinner before at least 10:00pm and to the bars afterwards until well after midnight. This does mean however lift queues are usually quiet first thing in the morning. With their central location and internal walk way access to the lifts/ski hire shops is simple. Ideal for families who are ok with being based around a hotel only.
Finally, staying up at Tanau. We’ve stayed a few times in Hotel La Pleta (http://www.lapleta.com/en/). It’s fantastic, but is certainly not budget skiing. It virtually has it’s own lift to access the slopes and the hotel restaurant and spa are critically acclaimed. Apparently, you have a fair chance of seeing the odd famous face staying here including Royalty. Not that we've seen anyone !
Driving to resort gives you the flexibility to stay a little outside the main resort, and drive around to some of the other villages in the valley to see what they have to offer.
Off there in a few weeks back to Casa Irene.
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Going to also recommend Hotel Colomers in Salardu, Salardu has a nice vibe and 2 excellent restaurants. we loved it...
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Random question: Does anyone know if there is an indoor tennis court anywhere in the Val d'Aran?
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