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Courmayeur 23/24

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Courmayeur delivered Powder, nice pistes and of course Coffee.
Youla open mid morning, but instantly had a big que. Zerrotta was also initialy shut.
Only the home run is not recommended, although passable with care.

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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Sweet
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Any updates?
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rogg wrote:
Any updates?

Yes please
We’re thinking of a day trip from Chamonix this tues/wed/or Thursday. Any recommendations for a family with no car, would be greatly appreciated.
Pistes to do? Cafes? Lunch? All for one long day trip. Cheers
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
@Skime, I think I'd be looking Thursday if the forecast's accurate https://www.meteoblue.com/en/weather/week/checrouit_italy_8970047?day=6

There's a bus from the bus station at 08h-something in the AM returning 16-17h-something PM from the iirc Courmayeur bus station. Not the most convenient of things with young kids.

Courmayeur's pretty simple, mostly easy reds. Pretty easy to cover everything in a day. (Well, again if kids speedy enough).

Maison Vieille is good for lunch, nothing complex but well produced - but you (almost?) certainly (?) would need to book and arrive on time (and be prepared for somewhat slow service when they're busy).

I'd avoid the bar/resto in the top station of the Checrouit bubble, expensive for no good reason.

Otherwise we like Chiecco but it's a bit £££ and fussy and maybe less kid friendly. You haven't detailed the composition of your family ...
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@under a new name, unless there has been a change to the bus services they also drop off/pick up at the Skyway (a short walk from the cable car).

As for Maison Vielle; I was put off returning by a combination of length of wait after booking and their persistence with retaining a photograph of Mussolini on the wall.
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
@HammondR, ah, very good re buses, it's been a few years since we used the bus.

Mussolini, perhaps ironic? (although one wouldn't consider the same humourous irony with a certain A Hitler). Italians, eh? (WHat a weird thing to have on the wall. Can't say I'd noticed it Embarassed

On the wait, recent or pre-covid? Everyone's short staffed ...
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
@under a new name, the long wait was 2016.

You don't mess with a Yorkshireman!

As for Ill Douchebag and possible irony. I was with a friend who is a French guide of Spanish origin, who's family had fled Franco's Spain in the 1930's.

He is a fine and reasonable man.

What started off as a good mannered discussion rapidly deteriorated.

So I go elsewhere.
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@HammondR, crikey. Yep, entirely reasonable!!

Can't say I've noticed it, perhaps they took your point?
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@Skime, we used to go to Chez Ollier which is under the Pra Neyron chairlift out of the Plan Checruit, great pizzas, it can get busy so worth booking, or try Pre Pascal which has stunning views over Monte Bianco, it’s on the other side of the mountain on run no 4, family run for years canteen style service with a good selection of local dishes.
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Looking potentially at a short break for two advanced skiers in mid to late Feb if snow conditions look good. Is the off piste itinerary going from Cresta Youla to Merotta doable without a guide or are there a lot of hidden dangers despite the straightforward looking nature of the marked itinerary on the ski map?
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
@Dr. Will, if you need to ask …
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So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
I’m happy to be told one way or another, just wanted to get a feel of what the itinerary is like. What I was getting at is whether it is comparable to some of easier lift served off piste in Espace Killy (eg Tour de Charvet, Glacier de Pisaillis) where people tend to do without guides.
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
@Dr. Will, Huh! I didn't even know that existed (so I'm absolutely no help at all).

As it's marked on the piste map as an itinerary, I'd expect it to be totally doable without a guide, conditions willing, ... you could try searching in Italian for a reference/review?

Courmayeur doesn't get so many anglophone visitors these days, and not so much coverage on here.
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Like here https://www-dovesciare-it.translate.goog/freeride/courmayeur/arp?_x_tr_sl=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en

I don't know how often the locals get to it but it looks quite "wild". I certainly wouldn't be skiing it alone. (Also most defo avvy gear). I think first time I'd want a local with me.
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Poster: A snowHead
Thanks yes I def won't be skiing it alone! Looking at the info that is really helpful it seems that the upper cable car is only accessible to those with proper gear (and guide) so I guess they kind of police that themselves- the off piste to the left certainly looks wild! I guess the lower Youla variant that I was thinking off technically looks ok but it does mention avi risk- so would need to look into hiring some gear- and although not cheap prob would be worth considering a guide to make the most of the short stay.
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
@Dr. Will, done the trip from both the Youla and Arp lifts on many occasions and it is often an absolute pleasure. Whether or not you need a guide or not is always a matter of personal preference. Never been to Espace Killy so I can’t compare.

First time I did it was with a chum who had been before and knew the way. Most of the people I ski with come from a climbing background and are used to operating independently. There are some decisions to be made on route finding about half way down as you come to the end of a wide bowl. Generally a bit easier taking the skier’s left options. If you go right the gully narrows to a bit of a rocky scraped section requiring careful attention.

In half decent visibility finding your way should not be a problem. It would be pretty miserable if you can’t see where you are going.

I usually have a word with the lifties on the way up to these sorts of routes about snow conditions and avalanche risk/difficulties accessing the routes, any exit problems, etc. They are generally only too happy to share information.

The top cable car is open to anyone. It now even provides access to a newly excavated totally unnecessary piste back down to the Youla. makes access a bit slower. It used to be the preserve of Norrona’d up roughy toughies and people taking pictures.


It is an exciting back of beyond place totally unlike the rest of the ski area.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
@HammondR, sounds rather tasty! I have done a route off the back of Arp - with a guide - and sadly the snow was appalling - mostly windblown and ice.But sort of fun snowHead
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Have found further details here

https://www.guidecourmayeur.com/en/scheda_valle.php?id_prg=207&id_stag=2&settore_valle=Freeride&settore=Freeride+in+Courmayeur+Area%3Cbr%3E&settore_bis=Freeride&ctmz=1

Presumably the official guides' office? so will take it from there thanks. Will have to have a think about it- by their recommended levels I should be ok for the Youla routes (have experience previously doing lift served off piste with avi gear in a UCPA week at Chamonix) but my friend is not particularly experienced in off piste and not super confident in steep moguled blacks- might be a bit much for him.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
@under a new name, it can be a super place to ski but you need to pick your time. Needs plenty of snow cover the whole way. Getting to the big open slope from the Arp requires a long traverse on the south side of the ridge and a PITA sidestep up to the Col de Youla. From there it is almost always a rocky and icy sideslip for a hundred yards above a big but reducing drop on the west side to the open north facing slopes. Hence good to check it is manageable with the lifties.

It can be different up there from even slightly lower down. Not that long ago I went with a chum. The avalanche risk was 3 on the display at the Youla. All things considered, within our appetite for risk that day. When we emerged from the Arp lift it was 4 up there!

It also provides access to some good touring. You can access Mont Fortin, Pointe des Chavannes and other minor peaks in the area with north facing descents. It is also the laziest way of getting to bigger options at the end of the Mont Blanc range via the (grim in winter) Elizabetta hut.

You need to get your inner Norrona on.
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@Dr. Will, “but my friend is not particularly experienced in off piste and not super confident in steep moguled blacks- might be a bit much for him”

I would not go with him.
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Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
HammondR wrote:
@Dr. Will, “but my friend is not particularly experienced in off piste and not super confident in steep moguled blacks- might be a bit much for him”

I would not go with him.


Fair enough- if we do decide to er on the the side of caution there do seem to be a reasonable selection of pisted runs on offer for few days. Final question- on the week I'm considering (Mon 19th to Fri 23rd Feb) seems to still be French school holidays and Swiss school holidays for some areas but I'm unsure Italians have holidays then. Are there loads of French and Swiss that cross the border to invade Courmayeur usually during those periods or given it seems more of a reasonably serious skier/off piste resort rather than super suited for beginners/families we should be pretty safe mid week from invading hordes of holidaymakers?
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Fresh snow everywhere, no people. 10cm down low, 25up high. Quiet to the point of walking on to the Yula lift and having to wait for a few others to justify running it! Coverage enough to ski everywhere (ok a bit rough in the tight tree couloirs above Zerotta, below Bertolini). Ski out officialy closed but still nice to ski.
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A bit busy today. Bertolini opened about 10am, Gabba aound 11 (they were doing avie control from a heli!). Fresh powder to be found, but also wind scoured and hamerd if you were unawears. Below 1800m it suddenly changed from great pistes to boilerplate. Skiout still closed, unadvised, refozen crust over slop, an unplesant experience.
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Pistes immaculate top to bottom at 09h00 lower and sunnier slopes getting heavy by 12h00.

Off piste (well the little that we sampled) about 30cms high up and somewhat blown, as opposed to blower.

Mild and very sunny, so a very pleasant morning's excursion.
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The place was full of Chamonix regulars with big fat skis, internet access and a rudimentary understanding of weather forecasts.

We neglected to take skins assuming that the Youla and Arp would open. Rookie mistake. We contoured around to get to the back of beyond routes below the Youla. Ended up skiing the Spanish Couloir which had some very agreeable fresh cold snow in it. Never been there before and never tried to access anything around there from so low down.

Got home and read up on the Spanish Couloir. Gulp.

The forecast is for 10cm or more snow on Tuesday night. If the wind is moderate there will be a chance of fresh tracks from the top lifts. With a concomitant avalanche risk.
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
@HammondR, ans scandis, lots of scandis with limited skills but unlimited testosterone rolling eyes
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 So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
Hallo, does anyone have any recent information on Courmayeur conditions, in particular how low down snow cover goes at present, please?

(In Chamonix for a week and considering off-piste options on the Italian side, but a lot of them seem to involve descent to valley level - not sure how possible that will be at the moment.)
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
Any updates in snow conditions in Courmayeur. Just wondering if worth a trip from chamonix? Not searching for anything more than some nice pistes.
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