 Poster: A snowHead
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What's the fave wax on here?
I ask because I normally use TOKO, and just wondered what the general consensus on Brands was on here.
Obviously temp dependant too on which one to use, but thought I'd ask.
Ta
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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johnDUB, In case you don't already know and feel the need the scissors/paper icon to the right of the first post would let you change it if you want to. 
Last edited by Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do. on Sun 27-01-08 21:59; edited 1 time in total
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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johnDUB, Dominator
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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| johnDUB wrote: |
spyderjon thanks, i'll look into that. Toko's not lasting like i'd like it too.
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Which TOKO in what conditions?
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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Conditions are mixed. Soft to icy ( cairngorm mountain )
I've used TOKO All in one and the Black one. I use a Mouse cat iron ( one to use with wax sheets ) as Snow and Rock said it was fine with Normal waxes too.
The white seems to leave the sides of the base quick, and the Graphite one didn't go on to good. Felt plasticky. Ended up whipping it off one night ( no sexual pun ) in hotel room, and replaced with All in One. After scraping and polishing with Nylon/copper brush combo, quick wipe with a microfibre cloth and I put a coat on of either swix or ski data liquid wax.
I can get the wax off the edges in a day. Ski's are 2002 Xscream series. Wax'ed twice a year for good measures.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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If I was using Toko in those conditions I'd pick System 3 red/blue in a 50/50 mix or the LF Dibloc blue.
If I was using Swix, I'd pick CH7 with a bit of Zardoz dependent on temps.
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| johnDUB wrote: |
Conditions are mixed. Soft to icy ( cairngorm mountain )
I've used TOKO All in one and the Black one. I use a Mouse cat iron ( one to use with wax sheets ) as Snow and Rock said it was fine with Normal waxes too.
The white seems to leave the sides of the base quick, and the Graphite one didn't go on to good. Felt plasticky. Ended up whipping it off one night ( no sexual pun ) in hotel room, and replaced with All in One. After scraping and polishing with Nylon/copper brush combo, quick wipe with a microfibre cloth and I put a coat on of either swix or ski data liquid wax.
I can get the wax off the edges in a day. Ski's are 2002 Xscream series. Wax'ed twice a year for good measures. |
If you're not racing & don't need max performance then the Dominator Zoom Lime Uni will be ideal in those conditions as it has a very wide snow temp operating range. And if it suddenly gets v.cold or v.warm you can supplement with Zardoz Notwax.
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You know it makes sense.
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I'll give that a try. I use to use the Swix paste in like a little hockey puck tin. I'd let Snor and Rock Service them, and that used to last quite well.
Thanks for the input, i'll keep a look out for the Notwax.
Thanks again.
John
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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I found a yellow bottle of TOKO liquid wax at the back of the cupboard. Is it worth sponging some of this on every evening or will it not make a difference? (I know NOTHING about waxes!  )
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Poster: A snowHead
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What i've found is that say your there for a week, a hot wax will only do three day till it's gone, so after everydays skiing sesh, sponge it on. It will help you glide. I also find the paste stuff good for at the end of the day when your packing them away. Dry the skiis off with a good Microfibre cloth, ( Halfords sell em ) and paste the bases and the edges. Stops em rusting.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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| johnDUB wrote: |
| What i've found is that say your there for a week, a hot wax will only do three day till it's gone..... |
You're definately on the wrong wax. You should be able to get at least a week in most conditions.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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After a two day's skiing, the wax what is left is basically on the tip, tails, and say 20mm either side of edges in middle, having white residue on the edges in from carving. Obviously cleaning the bases down at home with the hot scrape method and a final blast with base cleaner reveals a full ski of white so I gather the wax is gone prior. It was worse when I first bought the waxing system fron S+R, as it was sheets pre-impregnated with wax and an iron. Two passes per ski and a polish up with a brush was all that was needed, but when I first used it, needless to say on the end of the first day, I sneaked back to the hotel room to re wax, but this time adding a (sorry vague) red swix to the sheets at the same time and scraping, brushing etc. That gave better results, but our local Nevis sports shut, so I bought a few general purpose Toko's ( white S+R £10 ) and a Black Toko Graphite one. I wasn't overly impressed with the graphite wax, as it felt quite plasticky, and I actually christened that stuff on the Blizzards I'm selling while at Castleford for 2 hours. I tried it on the xscreams and the glide didn't seem the same, so back went on Toko white. They do ski better and glide good, just longevity on the edges really, so I paste wax em with Swix Red Glide 0/10degC on top, and it helps out a treat. I gave em a good hammering with this method at Chill Factore before xmas and they stood up pretty good. Obviously not on 2 days up Scotland but, I picked on the icy patches  to vary the conditions etc.
In fairness, my ski are 187's and I run em flat out till either I drop or the lifts close. Perhaps I expect too much, but any input greatly recieved.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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johnDUB, Keep base cleaner away from your bases as it dries out the bases. Use it only for localised cleaning of a repair site. Clean only using the hot scrape method. And don't clean too often, I usually clean after every 3/4 weeks of use depending on the temperatures I've been in.
Sounds to me like you're rushing the whole process. For wax to be properly absorbed the bases need to be warmed/expanded (the ski often goes in to reverse camber) by ironing in the wax, & it'll take more than two passes of the iron to do that. The skis then need to be left (Dominator recommend 90 mins for their Zoom wax) to slowly cool & contract to hold in the wax before scraping & brushing. Paste or cream wax is nowhere near as effective as a proper hot wax & as the ski isn't warmed etc.
Prior to applying your final wax of choice I'd also recommend applying a couple of base prep wax coats (crayon/drip/iron/fully cool/scrape/brush) using either a pucka base prep wax (Dominator Renew or Holmenkol Base Prep) or just multiple coats of a soft yellow wax to load up the base etc. This gives even better performance & greatly increases longevitiy.
Xscape snow is pretty aggressive & doing a couple of hours there is like a couple of days on the mountain. I do regular visits to Xscape & PolarX is best for longevetity but not performance & it's a pain to apply so I just apply Zardoz Notwax over my usual Dominator, & that's only when I remember.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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I think your absolutely right. I don't do enough passes andput enough on. I was taught by aa Ski Tech who worked for Wilderness Ways in Chesterfield ( remember them? ) He did the Base Cleaner, Belt Grind, Repair, then Wax using small balls of wax heated by an iron, followed by a scrape and polish, so I always took the application once for granted. 
Luckily I've ditched the sheets because they struggle to get mid way from the tail on 187's.
Anywhoo,
So if I get this right, rather than the way of crayon,drip,iron, cool, scrape,brush, do the same then repeat and build it up, then finish. And only clean with the hot scrape method.
I've got a fair amount of Toko white left, so I'll put on two more coats before I go away next month.
Thanks Spyderjon.
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